Monitoring of sensory attributes used in the quality payment system of Trentingrana cheese

Trentingrana is a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) hard cheese manufactured in the valleys of Trento province (eastern Italian Alps) by several small cooperative dairies linked in a consortium. Nine months after production, wheels are delivered to a shared facility, ripened up to 18 mo, and assessed by a panel of 8 experts for 7 sensory attributes; namely, external aspect, rind thickness, paste color, texture, odor, taste, and aroma. The evaluation takes place every 2 mo on wheels sampled within each dairy. Based on the results of the assessment, dairies receive a price premium or penalty depending on a quality index, which is the weighted sum of the scores attributed to each sampled wheel. Sensory scores and quality index of 652 wheels representing 11 dairies and 10 yr of production were analyzed using a model that included fixed effects of dairy, year, and season of production, and first-order interactions between them. The coefficients of determination ranged from 0.50 (texture) to 0.66 (aroma). All factors significantly affected the studied traits, with the exception of interactions between dairy and season of production for texture and external aspect, and between year and season of production for odor. Dairy was the most important source of variation for visually assessed traits (external aspect, rind thickness, paste color, and texture) and for quality index, whereas year of production was the most important for flavor attributes (odor, taste, and aroma). The latter traits were always highly correlated among them and with the quality index, whereas correlations among visually assessed attributes, between them and flavor attributes, and between them and the quality index were more erratic. The sensory evaluation performed by the panel of experts has proven to be a useful tool to define the quality index and address the payment system of Trentingrana cheese, but it has some limitations in correctly describing the sensory profile of cheese and identifying specific defects and possible remedies.